Following the Route of Stars and Wine in Chile’s Elqui Valley

Marking the southernmost boundary of Chile’s Atacama Desert, the Elqui Valley (Valle del Elqui) is a mystical place where vineyards climb the foothills of the Andes and the night sky seems almost impossibly close. 

Around 300 days of sunshine each year, minimal rainfall, and low light pollution have made Chico Norte (the “Little North”) one of Chile’s most celebrated destinations for professional astronomy and astro-tourism. By day, travelers explore vineyards and pisco distilleries. After dark, they turn their attention upward to the night sky. 

Known as the Route of Stars and the home of Pisco, this much overlooked region — more popular with domestic vacationers than overseas explorers — celebrates what grows beneath the sun and what becomes visible beneath the stars.

Route of the Stars: Stargazing in Chile’s Elqui Valley

The Elqui Valley’s geography creates favorable conditions for observing the night sky. Encased by quartz mountains — said to emit a distinct form of spiritual energy likened to that of Tibet – the valley is dry, relatively remote, and protected from much of the light pollution found around Chile’s major cities. The combination of clear weather and dark skies has attracted major astronomical observatories to the broader Coquimbo region.

Guided nighttime excursions around the towns of Pisco Elqui and Vicuña introduce visitors to constellations, planets, nebulae, and the Milky Way. Much may be seen by the naked eye, although the provision of high-spec telescopes allows for a closer inspection and a deeper understanding. The southern sky is particularly rewarding, with celestial landmarks including the Southern Cross and the Magellanic Clouds.

Astronomy also has a cultural dimension in the Elqui Valley. Long before modern observatories and telescopes, Chile’s Indigenous communities observed the skies as part of their understanding of the natural world. Today, astronomy experiences typically combine scientific interpretation with local stories and perspectives on the relationship between the earth and the cosmos.

Exploring Chile’s Pisco Country

In the light of day, the Elqui Valley is devoted to a different kind of star: the grape behind pisco, the national spirit. As the dry climate, intense sunshine, and subterranean irrigation channels foster prime conditions for growing grapes, the Elqui Valley is Chile’s principal pisco-producing region. 

Pisco is a grape-based brandy made by distilling fermented wine from aromatic grape varieties, namely Muscat, Torontel, and Pedro Jiménez. Distilleries like Pisco Mistral and Doña Josefa in Pisco Elqui offer tours and tastings that chart the process from vineyard to bottle. Advance booking is recommended for non-Spanish speakers to procure a bilingual guide. 

The best way to consume the brandy is in the form of a Pisco Sour, Chile’s signature cocktail, which blends the pisco with citrus juices and sugar. Some artisanal producers also experiment with different aging techniques and botanical flavors.

Wine Among the Mountains

Although pisco dominates the valley, Elqui Valley wine is gaining increasing attention. The region is particularly associated with Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc, which perform well in its distinctive climate. Winery visits tend to be intimate, with tastings offering the chance to understand how altitude, aridity, and intense sunlight influence the wines. Over the course of a day or two in the Elqui Valley, travelers get to experience how the landscape connects the two experiences naturally — it’s those clear skies that help ripen the grapes that also make the Elqui Valley one of Chile’s most memorable places to look up.

The seaside city of La Serena has the closest airport for reaching the Elqui Valley. Casa Molle, a Relais & Châteaux hotel, provides a comfortable base on the outskirts of Vicuña, the hometown of Gabriela Mistral, with astronomy experiences hosted in the property’s amphitheater and birdwatching excursions on offer.

Contact Darby’s Destinations to design an itinerary exploring Chile’s Little North and the Atacama Desert.